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Stanage Edge
Black Hawk Traverse
Grade: Difficult (D) Location: Stanage Edge
This fantastically popular route is often included in many peoples initial gritstone apprenticeship, never hard, and well furnished with holds it is very friendly but not without interest. At half height the famous "Bishop's Stride"? will test the leaders resolve as you step across, and slightly down, onto a good ledge. Having done this, you will be rewarded with a choice of three equally good finishes.
Flying Buttress
Grade: Very Difficult (VD) Location: Stanage Edge
This excellent classic takes you into steeper territory above and slightly to the side of the imposing overhangs of "˜Flying Buttress Direct'. The climbing is honest and obvious with a fantastic finish on some of the best holds on Stanage.
Christmas Crack
Grade: Hard Severe (HS) Location: Stanage Edge
Back to Stanage for the classic "˜Christmas Crack', this is what proper routes should be about. Surprisingly steep, but well furnished with good holds and protection, it's a route to be savoured. On the top section there is also the opportunity to pull up the exposed rib if you fancy testing yourself..
Mississippi Buttress Direct
Grade: Very Severe (VS 4c) Location: Stanage Edge
One of Stanage's landmark routes at the grade, "˜Mississippi Buttress Direct' is one of the longer routes at Stanage and is not without interest. Steep bridging up the initial groove and flake line takes you to two distinct, but well protected, bulges.
Left Unconquerable
Grade: Extremely Severe (E1 5b) Location: Stanage Edge
An established classic and a popular route as a first E1, "˜Left Unconquerable' takes the precarious crack and flake line to a good horizontal break. Here there is the opportunity to place as much protection as possible, before climbing the tricky upper section. At the top you are rewarded with large holds made for tired arms.
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